Wednesday, December 31, 2008

How to fix your dead watch - take it apart

Anybody actually following my SPOT adventures (all of the 3 people) may have noticed that I have been neglecting my journal here for a while. Never fear, I am still a big SPOT fan, and even have lots to share from the last few weeks.

About three weeks ago, my original Abacus watch died. I didn't even notice a large static shock - I was just taking off a shirt. Oh well, I thought I would just have to reboot it, as usual. I was wrong. I spent days pushing and holding all sorts of button combinations. I held the buttons until my fingers had little imprints of them. I left the watch on the charger overnight. I pushed the buttons while on the charger. No luck.

It looked like this time I would finally have to give in, and send it to Fossil for repair. Mind you, I had posted that I would do that about two weeks before the incident, but despite the annoying resets, I just couldn't bring myself to part with my only watch - I was too hooked on it.

After about 5 days without the watch, I was ready to box it all up and take it to the post office, when I realized something. While pt had posted pictures of the guts of a Suunto N3, I hadn't seen the inside of a Fossil watch yet. So I decided to take it apart just for fun. I put together a handy picture reference to the inner workings of an Abacus watch.

A couple of interesting things. First of all, a little plastic section that clearly says "Citizen" proves that Fossil's watches are, in fact, manufactured by Citizen. And while there isn't much else to see inside, the battery type and OEM information are informative. The battery also has a nice little plug connector, similar to many motherboard connections.

And that's when an idea struck me: why not disconnect the battery and thus perform a really "hard" reset. So I unplugged it, plugged it back in - and the watch came back on! Apparently it needed a full reset, which is what yanking the battery did. I put it back together, and it has been working fine. I had another static incident when it died and wouldn't turn back on, and yanking the battery again solved the problem.

Of course, I am sure this voids your already short Fossil warranty, and you could permanently damage your watch, so don't try it just for fun. But if you have a completely dead watch, and don't feel like sending it in, it's something to try. After the 5 days of being SPOTless, I was really happy to see the watch face come back on. After another 10 minutes the watch locked onto a signal and started downloading content. So far it's been faring rather well, too.

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Tuesday, December 30, 2008

How to Accessorize With Jewelry

Accessories are important to making any outfit look great! Jewelry is one of the most important parts of accessorizing. Read on to find out a few simple tricks and tips to help any woman or girl!

Steps

Find the precious metal that matches you. Brunettes, redheads and grays should use silver jewelry, while blonds look best in gold. Women/girls with black hair can use either. However, if you absolutely love gold, and you're a brunette, redhead, or gray, (or if you're a blonde and love silver), don't hold back! Also, if you are a Brunette, for example, but suit warm colors better, you will actually suit gold more.

1. Match jewelry to your clothing. Wear ruby earrings with a red top, or a sapphire-accented necklace with your favorite blue dress. Black clothing can be worn with any color of jewelry.
2. Match jewelry with other jewelry. A matching bracelet-and-earrings set or two similar necklaces looks great.

Tips
· Black makes bright colored stones pop!
· Wedding rings don’t have to match other metals in your jewelry.
· Wear necklaces 3”-4” below your neckline.
· Wear larger earrings for a "smaller" appearance.
· Use proper sizes of jewelry to match your body shape. Petite women will often be overwhelmed by a piece of jewelry that looks delicate on larger women. *Wear pins high on your shoulder.
· Keep textures the same - antique with antique, shiny with shiny etc.
· Wearing 3 bracelets on one arm is an attractive option.
· Wear a bracelet with your watch.
· Long necklaces create vertical lines, thus making you appear taller and more slender.
· Jewelry is the most cost-effective accessory you can own & changes the look of each outfit.
· Wear jewelry to add color. For example if you're wearing an all black and white outift, a pink necklace, and/or bracelet, and/or watch, would look beautiful.

Warnings
· Wearing very heavy earrings causes your ears lobes to drag and even tear! This gets worse with age and is not pretty. Torn earlobes generally cannot be fixed.
· Don't wear too much jewelry.
o Wearing too much jewelry will make seem "Flashy"
· Wearing too much jewelry can make you a target for stealing crimes.

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Monday, December 29, 2008

All about Wrist Watches.

What's the best way to store a watch?
Storing a luxury watch properly requires a little extra care. Diamonds and other gemstones are hard enough to scratch metal jewelry and to mar the surfaces of other stones they come in contact with. Store diamond and/or gold watches in their own individual soft cloth pouches, place them in a jewelry box that has separate compartments for each piece or store them in their original box.

What's a "movement"?
A movement is the mechanism that actually calculates the passage of time--the "guts" of the watch, if you will. Like the engine and transmission of a car, watch movements are so fundamental to the quality of the watch that they are often manufactured by separate companies, or by the same company in a different factory. The movement is also the part of the watch which is usually covered by a warranty--much like the "engine and drivetrain" warranties that come with new cars.

What is the legal definition of a Swiss watch?
As the universally-acknowledged manufacturers of the world's best watches, the Swiss are understandably rather persnickety about what watches qualify as "Swiss." To protect the integrity of their good name, several organizations have formed with the specific intention of regulating quality and defining standards for the industry. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry has produced a list of "Verordnung Swiss Made" rules that state that a Swiss watch must:
· Have a Swiss movement that
· Was set into its case in Switzerland
· By a manufacturer of Swiss origin.

Which leads to the question: What is a Swiss movement? They have a ready answer, of course:
It must have been assembled in Switzerland under the supervision of a Swiss factory and the parts of the movement that are Swiss in origin must constitute at least 50% of the movement's total value. Movements that meet these exacting requirements earn the right to be stamped with the word "Swiss." Sometimes the stamp will instead say "Suisse," "Swiss Quartz," "Swiss Made," "Produit Suisse," or "Fabrique en Suisse." These all mean the same thing. However, if the case is not of Swiss origin, then this inscription cannot be visible--it must be concealed by the case. However, the case may be stamped with the words "Swiss Movement" to indicate that it's Swiss on the inside, if not the outside. In the case of the reverse--a non-Swiss movement in a Swiss case, only the words "Swiss Case" are permitted.

What does the word "Geneve" on a watch mean?
Just as Geneva is a more specific location than Switzerland, the designation "Geneve" is a more exacting mark of prestige given to watches by the Bureau de controle des Montres de Geneva. To qualify, in addition to matching all the above criterion for a Swiss watch, it must have had one of its major manufacturing steps take place within the Canton of Geneva. The theory is that at least 50% percent of the manufacturing costs will have been incurred "locally," protecting the trade and ensuring quality assembly.

What's the difference between a mechanical movement and a quartz movement?
Mechanical movements are what most people think of when they talk about the fine art of watch making--a precise, intricate system of tiny gears and springs which use mechanical energy to operate. These watches have a mainspring, which is wound either by hand or by "automatic movement" (self winding). The spring power is then transferred to the hands of the watch via a precise timing mechanism known as a balance.

A quartz movement is a simpler, less expensive timing mechanism which regulates time by sending an electric current from a battery to a tiny quartz crystal, which vibrates at precise and predictable rates--32,768 cycles per second to be exact. Quartz movements are superbly accurate and reliable. Because they can be mass-produced, quartz movements are used in everything from clock radios and digital watches to some very fine timepieces. However, what is gained in efficiency is lost in elegance, according to some epicureans.

Interestingly enough, the first quartz watch, introduced by Seiko in 1969, cost over a thousand dollars!

What does 17-jewel movement mean?
In spring-powered mechanical watches, conservation of energy is practically an art form. To reduce friction, many of the spaces between gears are set with tiny synthetic gem crystals, which resist temperature changes better than metal and hold lubricant much longer.

What does the word "chronometer" mean?
Strictly speaking, anything that measures time is a chronometer (chronos = time, meter = measure). An hourglass or a sundial is technically a chronometer. However, in modern watchmaking the term "chronometer" is a specific designation of accuracy, assigned only to high-quality watch movements that have been tested by the COSC.

Who is the COSC and what do they do?
The Control Officile Suisse de Chronometers is a Swiss testing laboratory that certifies watches, or rather their movements, as "chronometers." Each movement is individually tested over a 15-day period in different positions and temperatures, and passes only if it shows a loss of fewer than five seconds per day. Watches that have certified movements will usually be stamped with an inscription that says "Chronometer," "Certified Chronometer," or "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified."

What's a "chronograph"?
By definition a chronograph "records time." In modern watches this refers to a stopwatch function of some sort.

What do the letters "T" and "O" mean on my watch?
The letter "T" on the face of a watch stands for tritium, the greenish-white substance on the hands and numbers that glows in the dark. The letter "O" means that the indices on the dial are made of gold.

It is possible that this comes from the French word for gold, Or, is it true that tritium is radioactive?
Although tritium is a radioactive substance, the amount of radiation from tritium-coated watch faces is less than 25milliCuries, which isn't even enough to penetrate the watch case or crystal.

Is there such thing as a completely waterproof watch?
Not really--in fact it's not even a legal term in the US anymore, and for good reason. Even deep-sea submarines have maximum depths beyond which they cannot safely travel. That's because deeper water means higher water pressure, and eventually water pressure will break the windows. Watches are rated for "water resistance," which is an evaluation of how much water pressure the moisture seals can withstand. Most watches are rated to 50 meters, which is more than most of us will ever need. Sport and diving watches are often rated to 200 meters or more. Ironically, humans can only safely dive to about half that depth, and extremely high depth ratings are more an indicator of craftsmanship and status than actual utility. Water resistance is also measured in ATM, or atmospheres. One atmosphere is equivalent to 10 meters.

What does "Shock Resistant" mean?
Shock resistance is an American government standard of durability which means that the watch can survive a drop of three feet onto a wooden floor.

Is it true that only a diamond will scratch a sapphire crystal face?
Not quite. Another sapphire or ruby will scratch it. Also remember that scratch-proof is not hatter-proof. A sapphire crystal is remarkably durable, but far from impervious. It's best to treat a quality watch like any other piece of finely-crafted jewelry.

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Saturday, December 27, 2008

How Much Gold Is Really In A Rolex Watch?

Ever Wondered How Much Gold Is Really In Your Rolex?

The solid gold Rolex watch is really a thing of beauty. The typical gents Rolex President looks rather impressive due to its obvious mass and weight not to mention the price tag that goes with it. But did you ever really wonder what the actual gold value is in a Rolex President? Below we have taken an 18kt. gold Rolex and have removed the movement, the crystal and other non-gold parts. We weighed each part using a laboratory grade scientific balance. We are sure you will find the results very interesting. All values were based on the spot price of gold at $400.00 per troy ounce.

All precious metals are weighed using the troy system. One troy ounce contains 31.1 grams of a particular precious metal. There is 480 grains in one troy ounce. If the spot price of gold is $400.00 per troy ounce, the value per gram would be $12.86. Using these standards, the actual gold value in the Gents Rolex President would be $963.27.

These are the basic component parts of the Rolex. The band, the bezel ring that holds the crystal in place, the main case, and the case back.

Inside of the case back you will see that it is marked as being 18kt. It also has the decimal value of .750. This means that 75 percent of the weight is pure gold. Pure gold is 24kt. The pure gold is alloyed with silver, copper, and zinc. Also notice the official Rolex markings on the inside of the case back.

The clasp is also marked with the gold content as well as being marked with the Rolex logo. There is also a number that is the official part number for this band. This band has the bark finish.

This is the head or case ring of the Rolex. It is also marked 18kt. A genuine Rolex case will also have a Registered Design number engraved between the lugs at the 12 position. In this case, the number is 1803. Between the lugs at the 6 position you will find the serial number of the case. If you look close at this picture, you can see how Rolex machines out the lug ends and the case walls to reduce the amount of gold used to manufacture the case.

Using these parts the actual gold value of this Rolex can be determined as follows.

Case ring weights 18.5 grams. Contains 13.875 grams of pure gold. It has a value of $178.43.

Case back weighs 7.21 grams. Contains 5.41 grams of pure gold. It has a value of $69.57.

Bezel weighs 5.30 grams. Contains 3.98 grams of pure gold. It has a value of $51.18.

The bracelet weighs 68.85 grams. Contains 51.64 grams of pure gold. It has the most value at $664.09.

The total value of the pure 24kt. gold in this Rolex President is $963.27.

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Friday, December 26, 2008

Caring for Your Watch

Things to avoid
· Do it yourself repair jobs. It's tempting but it can easily damage your watch, sometimes beyond repair.
· Exposing your watch to water unless the water resistance is clearly spelled out by the manufacturer. Even a water-resistant watch should be checked every two years or so to make sure the seals are intact. Also, make sure to dry a watch after exposure to water to avoid possible rust formation.
· Leaving a quartz watch with a dead battery for a long period of time before changing out the battery. It can leak and corrode the inner workings of the watch.
· Playing sports with a mechanical watch. Even though most mechanical watches have sophisticated anti-shock protection, why take the chance?

Things to do
· Clean your watch regularly. Use an old, soft toothbrush or a toothpick and a slightly damp cloth to gently scrub away debris. If you watch isn't water resistant, be careful not to expose the case directly to water. Alternatively, you can take it into a jeweler's store and have it cleaned ultrasonically.
· Replace broken or badly scratched crystals before dust and moisture has a chance to damage the movement.
· Keep an eye on the watch bracelet or strap to make sure it is secure to the dial.
· If you have a mechanical watch, make sure it is serviced regularly (usually 3-5 years) to maintain adequate lubrication between the moving parts.

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Wednesday, December 24, 2008

How to shop for watches safely on internet

Online auction houses have a growing influence on the buying and selling of watches. Purchasing a watch online can be a fun experience if handled with care and awareness of the risks. Just like any transaction where you're unable to see the goods except through the eyes of the seller, buying online is a process fraught with danger for the unsuspecting.

Warranties

Many high end manufacturers do not honor warranties of watches purchased from dealers on the Internet. This is to prevent gray market sales and to keep their distribution channels under control. To this end, most manufacturers' web sites will warn you about purchasing watches from online sources. Existing warranties for some manufacturers are also not transferable.

The safest way to buy any watch is from a reputable dealer for that brand. This may mean a slightly higher price than from online dealers, but you get the peace of mind knowing your purchase and warranty is honored by the manufacturer. Also the risk of unknowingly buying a counterfeit is negligible.

Buying from an Auction

When you come across the watch of your dreams on an online auction site there are several things you need to do before getting too excited. Remember, all that you have to go by in evaluating the watch are:

1. Your knowledge of the watch in question.
2. The pictures the seller has posted.
3. The description of the watch he or she has provided.
4. The reputation of the seller (feedback percentage).

Before you purchase any watch online make sure you are comfortable with each of these areas. Don't buy something with a wonderful description and pictures if the seller has a low feedback percentage. If you know the pictures of the watch are from the manufacturers' web site be very wary of the seller. Balance all the areas against common sense before you buy.

Your Knowledge

The purpose of this guide is to increase your general knowledge and awareness of the replicas on the market. But you should also research and learn as much as you can about the genuine watch before you buy. This means if possible visit your local dealer and get an opportunity to see the watch in person. There's no real substitute for seeing the genuine watch and getting an chance to handle it. Even if all you have to review are photographs your personal experiences with the watch will aid in your decision making process.

There are also many online resources to turn to in helping you evaluate a watch. Never abuse the privilege by excessively posting auction listings to forums. If you're sincere and request help many forums will provide you with their informal opinion on a listing. Web forums like Timezone ( www.timezone.com) and Paneristi (www.paneristi.com) are well known hang outs for experts on particular watch brands.

Be familiar with the manufacturer's web site. This means visit the site and dig into the information that's posted there. Most manufacturers are light on information they post online. They seem to feel its more important to have a flashy dynamic site than one that presents a list of features and data.

Still these sites are wonderful tools to get an idea of the varieties of each model and to get a feel for the look of each watch. Plus many pictures from the manufacturer's web site are stolen and reused as actual item pictures in auctions. By being familiar with the manufacturer photographs (for example, Rolex always has their watches set to 10:10 and 30 seconds) you'll know what to look for.

The Seller's Pictures

It is very important to have good pictures available of a watch you're looking to buy. It states several things: that the seller is being open and honest about the sale by providing you a clear picture for inspection, and more importantly that the seller isn't trying to hide something by posting fuzzy pictures that obscure details.

Always look for pictures that show a watch at different angles. You want to see clearly the dial, case back, band or strap, and the clasp. By having clear pictures of these features it's easy to compare them to known genuine examples as well as look for flaws such as scratches, scrapes, and general wear.

Poor pictures provide you no assistance and actually harm the seller by withholding information. If you have any doubts about a watch because of the pictures tell the seller that you're interested in the item but you would like to see some additional photographs. One of the tricks you can use is to ask the seller to set the date or time to something specific to make sure that the pictures are actually of the watch they are selling.

Be aware that some unscrupulous people will use photos of other watches and represent them as their own. When this happens you're never sure of what you will actually get from the transaction; it could be a real watch, replica, or worse, nothing. Always feel free to ask the seller for additional pictures. His response will aid in making your choice.

My rule is that when the pictures are poor to pass on the auction. It's typically a sign of some kind of deception. Still, if the watch is what you want ask the seller for additional photographs to help you gather the information you need.

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Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Choosing Your Watch

So, what must you consider before you decide on the best suitable watch for you. Consider the following points:

Think about why you want the watch.
Every watch serves a purpose, from the most utilitarian to the most artistic. No matter what purpose yours will serve, there is an appropriate watch to meet your expectations.
Watches can be generally divided into the following categories :

• dress watch • sports watch - diver’s watch - pilot’s watchAll diver’s watches design come from Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster Pro. All modern pilot’s watch traces back to IWC Mark X, which was based on British MoD specifications.

Determine your price point.
In most cases, the cost of a watch is a consideration, but there is no formula for determining how much you should spend. However, you should take into account value and quality because it can be far more economical to buy a good watch that will last for years rather than several economical "disposable" watches. However, there is certainly nothing wrong with having a nice collection of shorter-lived fashion watches, if that is your aim.

All watches vary greatly in price from the very affordable to the extremely luxurious, including Swiss watches. So what makes one watch so much more expensive than another?

Generally, mechanical watches, by nature of their movements, are more costly than quartz watches, but there are a number of other factors that affect the cost of watches.

In relation to the movement, even on inexpensive models, this part is well designed and all the highly functional elements make use of the latest technology. In more expensive movements, all parts, whether functional or not, are finished with great care. All steel components are polished; bridges are decorated and chamfered; all parts are of the highest quality and undergo stringent tests; in short, the manufacturing standards are extremely high.

Case materials vary. These include plastic, resins, stainless steel, base metal (usually brass), gold-plated base metals, gold-filled and precious metals. Check either the back of the watch case or the documents accompanying the watch for the disclosure of metallic content. Plastic and resin composites generally are the least costly and are found primarily in fashion and sport watches. Stainless steel is a robust metal, used widely in sport watches.

Prices of gold-plated watches vary depending upon the thickness of the plating, which is measured in microns. Gold plating can range from 2-micron thickness to 30-microns and more. Precious metals used on watch cases include 14K or 18K gold, sterling silver and, in some very high-end watches, platinum.

Crystal types also vary, but with fewer options. Generally, the crystal, which is the glass-like covering designed to protect the dial of the watch, is either plastic, mineral glass, or synthetic sapphire. Plastic is mostly used in lower-priced, mass-market watches, while mineral glass is sturdier. Sapphire crystals, more expensive than mineral glass, are not only sturdy, but also highly scratch-resistant.

Bracelets can also influence watch prices considerably. There are straps made of plastic, rubber, leather and exotic skins that can range from $10 to hundreds of dollars. Similarly, metal bracelets can range from inexpensive base metals to precious metals, to specially developed tungsten carbide or titanium.

Let your lifestyle and environment be your guide.
The selection of a watch, in terms of style, design and brand, is purely based on individual taste. But there are a few factors that you should consider when selecting a watch from the thousands of models that are available.

To get started, ask yourself a few simple questions: What is your lifestyle? In what type of environment will you wear the watch?

In what types of activities will you participate while wearing the watch?

If your live a casual lifestyle, enjoy sports and outdoor activities, and your watch will occasionally be exposed to the elements, consider purchasing a sports watch. In particular, look for a water-resistant model with a stainless steel bracelet that will withstand rigorous activity and various weather conditions. If you're a sports-enthusiast, think about a chronograph-a watch that features a stopwatch function.

If your lifestyle revolves around the corporate world and you want a watch that projects a professional image, consider a classic watch with a timeless design. For a traditional look, choose a small square or rectangular dial with a leather strap. For a look with a modern edge, select a large round dial with a two-tone metal bracelet combining steel and gold.

If you're looking for more of an accessory or special occasion watch to be worn in formal settings, you might consider an elegantly refined timepiece. The natural choices are solid gold or platinum. For added drama, select a watch set with diamonds or other precious stones that serves not only as a timepiece but also as a beautiful piece of jewelry.

Above all, when selecting your watch, look for one that conveys your unique personality and individuality. The watch must ultimately be one that you love.

Consider what type of maintenance the watch will require.
The type of maintenance the watch requires, which will ultimately determine the watch's life expectancy, should also influence your purchase.

Mechanical (manual and automatic) watches should be cleaned and serviced every three years or according to the manufacturer's recommendations to ensure trouble-free time keeping and to retain the value of the watch. In quartz (battery operated) watches, the watch should be serviced when the battery is replaced. A watch battery usually lasts between two and five years, depending on the type of watch. Certain types of watches feature a power reserve indicator. When the second hand starts jumping every five seconds, it is time to have the battery replaced. Some watches are equipped with lithium-iodine batteries that have a theoretical lifetime of ten years.

Because the majority of people own quartz watches, it is very critical to stress that battery changes should be done by authorized service centers. If for some reason this is not possible the battery change should be done by a professional watchmaker. The reason for this is that during the battery replacement, the o-ring (gasket) must also be replaced and reattached to the back cover of the watch, then the watch must be properly sealed and undergo a water resistance test.

All of the aforementioned steps are crucial to ensure that your watch remains water-resistant. If water penetrates the case, causing rust and damage, this can lead to a very expensive repair. A wide variety of businesses now offer "while-you-wait battery replacements," allowing you to walk away happy with a new battery and a watch that is once again running. Unfortunately, you may later be disappointed to find water droplets on the dial of your watch, or worse yet, no signs of leakage--that is until your watch stops completely. Then it may be too late to repair the watch without a complete overhaul.
Consider the watch's life expectancy.

Another important consideration in your purchase of a watch is the life expectancy of the timepiece.

The life of mechanical watches can be almost infinite, as long as skilled watchmakers are available. Their finely crafted parts can be repaired, replaced and even remade by a skilled watchmaker.

Since quartz watches contain electronic components, their parts often cannot be repaired, but must instead be replaced. The life of a quartz watch can certainly be limited by the availability of those parts.


Before you take the dive, check for water-resistance.

Water-resistance is measured in bars (unit of pressure, 1 bar being equivalent to 1 atmosphere), and watches are tested at these pressures for a certain period of time. Exceptional pressure, as when diving, may exceed those limits, so if you are a diving enthusiast you will need a watch that can tolerate those conditions.

Manufacturers often measure water-resistance to a number of feet, meters or atmospheres (atm). Normally, terms of depth imply that a watch will remain resistant at that (atmospheric pressure) depth in still conditions. As a general rule, the following guidelines apply:
3 atm (30 m or 100 ft): rain, gentle splash 5 atm (50 m or 165 ft): swimming, splashing in pool, but not heavy diving or jumping 10 atm (100 m or 330 ft): minimum for sport diving 20 atm or more for serious diving

Decide whether you simply want the correct time or need some extra bells and whistles.
Watch measurement functions (in addition to the hours, minutes and seconds) are referred to as "complications." The best-known complication watches are calendar watches, the most common of which display only the date. There are also chronographs with a center second hand which can be started, stopped and brought back to zero using one or two push-buttons on the side of the watch. Other additional functions include second time zone, alarm, moonphase, repeater, perpetual calendar, etc.

A chronograph is a timepiece that not only indicates the time of the day in hours, minutes and seconds, but also measures continuous and discontinuous intervals of time. Basically, it is a watch with a stopwatch function.

A chronometer is a high-precision timepiece whose movement, after rigorous testing, has received an official timing certificate from an official timing bureau. It is a precision instrument that is accompanied by a certificate.

So, what’s important, and what’s not important?
BRAND REPUTATION is IMPORTANT - Learn about the reputation of the watch manufacturer. Don't ask watch-store sales people, they often are staggeringly ignorant on watches and often speak a lot of authoritative sounding nonsense, half-facts and downright wrong information. Instead, ask people who already own the types and brands of watches you are considering. Post questions on Internet forums dedicated to watches.

RESALE VALUE is IMPORTANT, but ONLY IF YOU UNDERSTAND IT CORRECTLY-- Many buyers have lost lots of their money on poor watch purchase decisions made based on poorly understood measures of "high resale" value. People usually incorrectly focus on how much of their investment they will get back if they resell a watch.

But you should instead be focusing on how much you gain or lose in the transaction.

UNDERSTANDING YOUR WANTS AND NEEDS is IMPORTANT-- You will make the best choice in your purchase if you understand what you want and what is really important to you in owning a fine watch. Many people get caught up in excessive details that end up impairing, rather than increasing, their enjoyment. Consider what you want: a watch to impress other people, one to impress you, something stylish, something that makes a statement, one that only you know it is special, with unusual functions, of specific metals, for dress / casual / recreational / active / sports wear, so accurate that you never need to think of resetting it between time changes, or any of dozens of other attributes. Once you have a good handle on these aspects, it will be much easier to select a watch.

KNOWING WHAT YOU BUY is MORE IMPORTANT than BUYING WHAT YOU KNOW-- Often, the best brands of luxury products in terms of quality and value are ones the 'average Joe' may seldom if ever hear of. Rolex and Tag Heuer are the two premium watch brands that are best known to the general public. But simply being popular is not a guarantee that those brands are your best choice or the only high quality, high value products the market has to offer. It is far more beneficial for you to research all your options instead of blindly selecting among the few brands that are 'household names.' You may still end up choosing one of their watches--but do so out of knowledge of your choices, not ignorance of them.

BRAND HISTORY is of SOME IMPORTANCE-- While many brands trace their heritage back 100 years or more, you need to consider how informative this is based on whether the watch you are about to purchase is better because of the experience this history implies, or is merely riding on the coat-tails of ancient successes or bought out fine names of long ago. A number of modern brands bearing fine names are mere shells of what their companies meant decades ago. Look at their new models and compare them to the older models for sale on used watch dealer sites and Internet auctions. Are 5 year old models of this brand worth anything? Are the much older models worth more than more recent ones? These can be signs of dramatic changes in the quality of watches from a manufacturer.

WATCH MOVEMENT DETAILS are usually of LITTLE IMPORTANCE-- Unless you are an expert, connoisseur or collector, do not worry to much about the details of the movement inside a watch beyond whether it is a) quartz, b) certified mechanical (Chronometer), or c) non-certified mechanical. Frankly, most watches from any premium brand are sufficiently fine devices for keeping time that will give you several decades of use if properly maintained. Technical details of the mechanical "movement" (the actual mechanism inside the watch) are seldom particularly important unless the watch you are buying is over $10,000 or has some unique functions. Over 98% of mechanical watches made mainly tell the time, date, and maybe include chronograph functions. All mechanical watches with just these basic features use technology invented over 75 years ago, and nobody has really improved it since then. So do not waste time fooling yourself into believing one standard mechanical watch mechanism is perceptibly different from another--especially to the extent of paying more for one watch over another based on that attribute alone.

ROMANTIC NOTIONS OF WATCHMAKING are MOSTLY UNIMPORTANT and OFTEN FALSE OR MISLEADING-- Many fine watchmakers try to give the feel that their expensive products are finely hand crafted. They do this by creating an image of your watch being made by generation old families of dedicated watch craftsmen, in a quaint village in the Swiss Alps, with movements made by the same people who make the rest of the watch, each crafted over long periods of time. But all of that is nothing more than romantic baloney designed to make you feel better about spending so much money on a watch. The truth is that very few watches under US $20,000 are hand crafted. Most are mass produced by machines in large quantities. Even the highly reputed Rolex is mass produced--they make over a million watches a year! Notions of the movement of the watch being better if made 'in-house' than if made by a separate company (even if owned by the same parent organization) are antiquated concepts that have little to no meaning in the modern age of large corporations and mass production. In fact, it is the modern techniques of mass production that ensure the higher level of consistency and quality that we enjoy of modern watches.

PRICE is NOT IMPORTANT -- "What?" you say? Price not important? That's right--it is not!! Price is only one measure of the value and deal you are getting. What good is a low price alone when the dealer is unable or unwilling to resolve a problem and you have no recourse with the manufacturer because you bought through an unauthorized cut-price dealer? What good is saving an extra few percent on a very expensive purchase if the product never arrives, turns out to be a counterfeit look-alike product, lacks good warranty coverage, or otherwise will disappoint you or cost you more money in the long run? So always choose your watch over the value you will receive for your money, not simply the lowest price for something that looks like what you wanted.

NUMBER OF JEWELS INSIDE THE WATCH is NOT IMPORTANT -- The number of jewels in the watch movement are normally prominently mentioned as if they really meant something. But in fact they are a just a red herring. These are not jewels of value. They are small synthetic ruby elements used as extremely low friction pivots for a few critical parts of a watch mechanism. They are worth only a few pennies and do not add value to a watch. The exact number that is appropriate for any watch movement depends on the exact design and functions of the movement. It is perfectly normal for two watch movements with identical performance and functions to use a different number of jewels. A standard mechanical movement usually requires a minimum of 17 jewels--but beyond that, more is not better in any way that you could interpret.

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Monday, December 22, 2008

How To Buy a Watch: A Simple Guide

Here are a few rules i learned throughout my experience in buying watches.

Rule #1. Before bidding make sure you read everything carefully. Read the item's description, condition, types of payments, shipping (if shipping is not listed, ask the seller) and finally check the seller's feedback score. If there are a few negative feedbacks move on! they were left there for a reason.

Rule #2. Here's something I love doing, save the images of the watch on your computer, use any software for picture editing and convert the images to "negative" or "solorization", that way you will magically see some scratches and faded areas that were not visible to the naked eye.

Rule #3. Save the description and picture of the watch, you never know, the information may come in handy someday.

Rule #4. Never buy a watch without a picture of its movement (the inside engine). There are alot of watches with different movements that are not original. I made that mistake and paid for it, don't repeat my mistake.

Rule #5. Automatic movements are usually more expensive and more durable than quartz movements, making them more desirable.
Rule #6. If you simply like the watch but don't know much about it, I have 3 words for you, Reasearch, Research, and Research! usually the best place to search for information is from a website that does not sell, one that is a data base or an archive. That way you can almost guarantee that you are not being drawn into buying.
Rule #7. Examine the pictures carefully (refer to Rule #2) and if they are not clear, ask the seller for clearer pictures, in most cases the seller will cooperate. Look at and examine the joints of the watch, look for cracks or chips as these are the areas they occur mostly.
Rule #8. Getting all original parts is very important. Here's a check list of what to look out for:
a) Bracelet (what goes around your wrist)
b) Buckle (the thing that fastens the watch to your wrist)
c) Crown (the small round thing on the side that turns to set the time)
d) Movement (the inside or engine of the watch)
e) Dial (the face of the watch, Where the hour and minute numbers are)
f) Case (the outside shell of the watch)

Rule #9. It's usually advised that you purchase insurance for the watch that you are buying, especially an expensive one. If insurance is not mentioned, ask the seller if he provides insurance and for how much.

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Saturday, December 20, 2008

Watch Terms Explained: Part 1 - A to M

There are literally hundreds of watch terms and finding all the meanings can be hard to here is the first part of watch parts explained letters A - M.

If this guide helps you please vote for it by pressing the YES button below. Thanks.

Analog Display
The time display is shown by hands and a dial, he opposite to digital display.
ATM
The water pressure rating of a watch. ATM means atmosphere and is equal to 10 meters of depth. 1 meter is 3 feet, 1 ATM is 10 meters, 5 ATM is 50 meters
Automatic watch
A watch that has the mainspring wound by the movement of the wearer's wrist rather than winding a stem. Also referred to as a 'self-winding' watch. A weight, the rotor, is turned by the motion of the wrist thus winding the mainspring. The energy generated by the movement of the rotor is transferred into the mechanical energy of a spring and then to the watch movement. If an automatic watch winds down most of them can by wound by hand or shaken to get it started again. The system was invented for pocket watches in Switzerland in the 18th Century by Abraham-Louis Perrelet. This system was successfully adapted to the wristwatch in 1923 by John Harwood, an English watchmaker
Bezel
The ring around the crystal on the top portion of a watch. Usually made of metals such as gold, gold-plate, platinum or stainless steel. Holds the glass or crystal in place.
Bi-directional Rotating Bezel
A bezel that can be moved either clockwise or counter-clockwise. Used to make mathematical calculations or keeping track of elapsed time.
Bracelet
A metal link watch band
Bubble Back
Term given to the case back of the first style automatic watches by Rolex due to it's bubble-shaped screwed case back.
Butterfly Clasp
2 ends of the buckle on a bracelet fold over into the centre. On a deployant clasp one end folds over the full length.
Calendar watches
Have subdials or pointers indicating the month, date and sometimes day of the week.
Simple Calendar - shows the Date of the month only
Day-Date Calendar - shows the Date and the Day of the week
Complete Calendar - shows the Date, Day of the week and the Month
Carat
1 carat equals 1-24 of fine gold. 18 carat gold contains 18-24 fine gold or 75% gold content.
Case
The container that protects the watch movement. It also gives the watch an attractive appearance. Cases come in many shapes, round, square, oval, rectangular. A case is called 'shaped' when it is not round. Cases can be made of different metals including stainless steel, gold, titanium, silver and platinum.
Caseback
The underside of a watch that lies against the skin. Some casebacks are made of crystal allowing you to view the watch movement.
Chronograph
Watches with a built-in stopwatch function. There are 2 independent time systems. One indicates the time of day and the other measures intervals of time. Subdials are used to keep track of seconds and of elapsed minutes and hours. Counters can be started and stopped as desired.
Chronometer
An instrument for measuring time very accurately. For a Swiss watch to be called a chronometer it must meet very high standards set by the C.O.S.C., Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres. The requirements are 15 days and nights at 5 different positions and temperature changes. The Organization of Swiss Watch Manufacturers definition as of 1951: 'A Chronometer is a precision watch which is regulated in various positions and at different temperatures and has received a certificate to that effect'.
Co-axial
The hour and minute hands move around the same axis.
Complication
Functions in addition to telling the time of day. Examples of a complication are a chronograph, a power reserve indicator, an alarm and a phase of the moon indicator.
Crown
Also called a stem. A knob on the outside of the watch case used to wind the mainspring in mechanical watches. Also used to set the time, when pulled out, and for setting a watch calendar, if fitted. A screw down crown is used to make the watch more water resistant and to help keep out dust.
Crystal
A transparent cover that protects the watch face. Crystals are made of glass, plastic or synthetic sapphire. Non-reflective coating on some crystals prevents glare.
Plastic Crystals
Acrylic, soft and flexible so they resist small impacts.Surface scratches can be buffed out.
Mineral Crystals
Heat-hardened glass about 10 times harder than plastic. Extremely scratch resistant but must be replaced if they do scratch.
Sapphire Crystals
2 - 3 times harder than mineral glass and virtually scratchproof. They are quite brittle so are more likely to crack or shatter than mineral. Replacement cost is substantially higher than for mineral crystals.
Date Display
Display of date on the dial of a watch.
Day/Date watch
A watch that indicates the day of the week as well as the date.
Deployant Buckle
A buckle that fastens to the watch strap and opens and fastens using hinged extenders. Invented by Louis Cartier in 1910. A deployant buckle is easier to put on and remove than a strap. Deployant comes from the verb 'deployer' which means to unfold. Sometimes mistakenly referred to as a 'deployment' clasp.
Dial
The face of the watch showing the hours, minutes and sometimes seconds.
Digital Display
Time is shown by using digits, numbers, instead of hands and a dial.
Display Back
A caseback that is transparent so that the movement may be viewed.
Escapement
The most important part of the watch. Converts the energy of the mainspring into equal units of time. The escapement allows the power stored in the mainspring to be released in a controlled manner. The regularity is controlled by the balance and it's spring. The escapement controls the rotation of the wheels and thus the motion of the hands. It is fitted at the end of the gear-train and is designed to interrupt the movement of the wheels at regular intervals.
ETA
Leading manufacturer in Switzerland for movements used in many Swiss watch brands.
Fly-back hand
In a chronograph there is an additional seconds hand that moves with the seconds hand and can be stopped independently and then made to catch up, 'fly-back', with the other constantly moving seconds hand.
Frequency
The number of vibrations per hour.
Gasket
Most water-resistant watches are equipped with gaskets to seal the case-back, crystal and crown from water infiltration. Gaskets should be checked every couple of years to maintain water resistance.
Goldplating
An electro deposited layer of gold. The thickness is measured in microns.
Greenwich Mean Time
The standard for timekeeping that was introduced in England in 1880 and used as the basis for calculating standard time throughout the world. It reflects the mean solar time along the Earth's prime meridian. The prime meridian is 0 longitude. The prime meridian runs through the Greenwich Observatory outside of London, England.
Hairspring
Also called the balance spring. A small spring that is attached to the balance wheel.
Hand
The indicator that moves over the dial to point at the hour, minute or second. Watches generally have three hands to show the hours, minutes and seconds. Hands can have very different shapes: pear, Breguet, sword, skeleton, baton, arrow, etc.
Helium Escape Valve
Prior to surfacing from great depths in a pressurized enclosure, such as a diving bell, toxic gases that have been formed in the enclosure are removed and helium is mixed into the air. The helium molecules are lighter than air and can therefore penetrate the watch. When the pressurized enclosure surfaces and is depressurized the helium rushes out of the watch so quickly that the glass on the watch pops out as well. The watch was built to withstand external pressure, not internal pressure. The glass popping out can be avoided by opening the Helium Escape Valve on the watch during resurfacing, which allows the helium to escape but prevents water from entering the watch.
Horns or Lugs
Projections on the watch case. There is a spring bar between the 2 horns that is used to fix the strap or bracelet.
Horology
The science of the measurement of time.
Hour Markers
Arabic numerals, Roman numerals or symbols placed around the dial to mark the hours.
Incabloc
A shock-proofing system for mechanical watches in use since 1933. It is the best known shock absorber for watches.
Jewels
Bearings that are used in a watch movement to reduce friction. They are usually synthetic sapphires or rubies. They help to maintain the watch's lubrication with far less friction than metal.
Kinetic
A quartz movement that does not use a battery. Energy is stored for a period of time through movement of the wrist that charges a capacitor.
L.E.D.
Light Emitting Diode. Used in digital displays on electronic quartz watches.
Limited Edition
A watch style that has a limited number manufactured. The production of a watch may be limited to 25 or 100 or 1,000 or whatever number the manufacturer decides to use. Each watch is usually engraved showing in what sequence it was made. e.g. 42-100 would be the 42nd watch made out of a total production of 100.
Liquid Crystal display
The time is displayed electronically by using a thin layer of liquid held between 2 plates, the top plate being transparent.
Luminescence
To emit rays of light. A luminescent material is deposited on numbers and hands in order to read the time in the dark.
Main Plate
The base plate on which all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted.
Mainspring
The driving flat-coiled spring of a watch or clock, contained in the barrel. Supplies power to the watch.
Manual-wind
A watch movement that must be wound manually every day or two to keep it running.
Mechanical watch
Origin dates back to the 14th century. It is made up of about 130 parts assembled in the three main parts which are: 1. the source of energy, 2. the regulating parts, 3. the display. The number of component parts is much higher in so-called complicated watches, date, phases of moon, fly-back hand, etc. The 'Ebauche', about 60 parts, fitted with the regulating and certain other parts, forms the movement, in other words the internal mechanism of the watch, which makes it possible to maintain a constant tension in the spring once it has been wound manually or automatically, by movements of the wrist, and to regulate the display by means of the hands, hours, minutes, seconds.

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Friday, December 19, 2008

I found a great deal on a luxury watch brand I haven't heard of, is it a counterfeit?

Not necessarily, but they might be luxury watch imposters. Fakes copy the well known brand names you probably have heard of. But there is another category of wristwatch products being sold on the Internet and through magazine ads that are not actually counterfeit--but they are sold using outrageous misrepresentations and should be equally avoided.

These "luxury watch imposters" are inexpensive watches being misleadingly represented as if they were fine luxury timepieces. They are sold under their own brand name, so they are not fakes of another company's brand. But their products are of modest to staggeringly cheap manufacture and have none of the merits of the fine, expensive brands they allude to. The typical scam on these are a combination of:


An impressive Swiss, German or European sounding name.
An impressive "retail price" or "RRP" (recommended retail price).
Fancy verbiage that sounds like what a luxury watch brand would say.
Impressive comparisons of features to those of "other" luxury timepieces. A special price you can buy it for that is incredibly below the retail price.

The deception here is that claimed retail price is a complete lie. These watches sell regularly at prices that are a trivial fraction--often as much as 70-95% off--of their claimed retail value. How can they sell them so cheap? Simple, they are cheap watches. Ones made to be profitably sold in the low, usually US$10-75, price range of their actual asking price. Any perception that these luxury imposters are even remotely worth in the US$250-2500 range is nothing more than pure marketing bravado and intentional deception.

Consumer protection agencies clearly label such exaggerated retail pricing as a misleading and deceptive sales tactic. The following is an example from the United States Federal Trade Commission (FTC):

"Many members of the purchasing public believe that a manufacturer's list price, or suggested retail price, is the price at which an article is generally sold. Therefore, if a reduction from this price is advertised, many people will believe that they are being offered a genuine bargain. To the extent that list or suggested retail prices do not in fact correspond to prices at which a substantial number of sales of the article in question are made, the advertisement of a reduction may mislead the consumer."

Here are some tips on spotting luxury watch imposter brands:


No real luxury watch sells new for a street, catalog or Internet price of under US$250.

No real luxury watch sells new for more than 50% off of its genuine retail price--even from the most aggressive discount dealers.

No real luxury brands are ever sold at "fire sales," massive inventory clearances or end of model year closeouts. They are valuable jewelry items that no business ever has to resort to liquidating at a below-wholesale loss.

A real luxury brand will be well discussed on the Internet. Do a Google search for the brand name. If you can't find collectors and owners discussing the merits of the brand, it is unlikely to be a true luxury brand.
A real luxury brand will be sold through well known dealers. If you see a brand sold mostly on auction sites--and never anywhere near it's claimed retail price--it is not a luxury brand.

Only in rare cases do these ultra-cheap imposter brands have official company websites that showcase the products. Just because you see a incredibly sophisticated website doesn't ensure that the brand is actually a valid luxury brand.

specific brands known to play the luxury watch imposter game are:


Klaus Kobec -- Advertises heavily in magazines as being comparable to US$2,000+ watches, with a retail price of US$900, but can be yours for only US$200.
Krug Baumen -- Sold on auction sites. Claims "RRP" in the £475-625 (US$900-1,200) range, yet they routinely sell in the £15-50 (US$30-100) range. Even has an impressive looking official website for the brand.
Montre Suisse -- Sold on auction sites especially in the United Kingdom, often in bulk lots of 5 to 10 pieces. Claims a retail price of £129.99 (approximately US$250), yet are sold in any quantity you want for less than £5.99 (US$12) each. Ironically, their name translates to "Swiss style."
Ultimately, any deal on a new luxury timepiece that looks too good to be true... is assuredly a scam. The economics of the manufacturing and selling products make it impossible for new wristwatches to be sold at 70-95% off of a legitimate retail price. Deceptive retail prices are used to get buyers excited that they are "saving" hundreds of dollars on an item. An excitement that causes them to overlook that they are really only purchasing low-end merchandise that is neither a luxury product nor worth anything more than the dime-store price they actually paid for it.

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Thursday, December 18, 2008

Why do people buy fakes and what does it say about them?

Through years of studing fakes and talking with people about them, we have never heard any good justification for buying or wearing them... only excuses why some people believe they deserve the perception of owning 'luxury' products without having to go to the effort and expense to buy the real things.

Curiously, people who buy fakes seem to have a contradicting thought process. They act like it is 'only a name' when they choose a counterfeit product with a premium brand name on it. Counterfeit buyers seem to be ignorant of or ignore the real merits that make the genuine item far more valuable than the fakes--they just consider one watch to be about the same as any other.

But they obviously consider the luxury name brand important enough that they are willing to accept items of highly dubious quality and origin just to get that brand name on them. So we have yet to find how to interpret people's willingness to pay for counterfeit versions of 'the name'--especially when they have contempt for or ignorance of why the name is valuable--as anything other than wanting to cheaply impress themself and others.

Here's what buying and wearing fake/counterfeit watches really says about the wearer:
Poor Grasp of Value - Replicas are made to sell by looking like something far more valuable than they are. They are seldom made for quality, carry no warranty, are made from cheap parts and are usually not worth repairing. They are basically overpriced disposable products, so are a poor value for your money.
Lack of Integrity - Those that choose cheap replicas to try to impress others that they have a real luxury watch are using falsehoods to represent themselves. So that makes people wonder what else about how you represent yourself is false.
Weak Ethics - Choosing replica watches shows the world that you are willing to support unethical and illegal businesses--not giving a care about the ethics and legalities involved if they get in the way of getting something that you want cheaply.
Gullible - Especially where someone unknowingly buys a fake, they show themselves to be easily deceived and someone that throws caution to the winds trying to get a super deal on an expensive item.
Isolated - Certainly there are no clubs for owners of fakes. No comraderie among fellow owners. No sharing of tips, tricks and performance issues. No assistance with operation, warranty or repair issues. Fake buyers are on their own with nobody to care, nobody to help and nobody to compliment or encourage them--except for the occasional person you might encounter that doesn't know enough about watches to realize you are trying to 'impress' them with a cheap counterfeit.

Where do people buy fakes?
The most common places are street vendors in major cities, flea markets, less reputable pawn shops, and Internet auction sites. Generally, these are all places where fly-by-night sellers can operate. Normally, counterfeits sell for anywhere from $50 to 150. Sellers of these illegally produced merchandise are frequently pursued by law enforcement and arrested.
In many cases, the buyer will understand that they are not buying genuine merchandise. But sometimes the buyer is completely unaware they are buying a fake. They may even pay hundreds of dollars -- believing they are getting an incredible deal on an expensive watch.

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Wednesday, December 17, 2008

What are "Adjustments" to a watch movement

Mechanical watches operate on the principal that energy stored in a spring is released in a controlled fashion through the movement of series of gears regulated by the back and forth swinging of an escape wheel. In essence, the escape wheel serves the same purpose as the pendulum of a grandfather clock, which swings back and forth. Obviously, tall case clock was designed to operate in exactly one position... standing upright. However, pocket watches and wrist watches must operate in many positions, and ideally should be equally accurate in any of those positions. A watch that worked perfectly only when laying face up on a table would not be a terribly useful item to own.
Most mechanical watches are designed to operate reasonably well in all positions, and are not adjusted to fine tune the operation of the watch in other positions. Such watches are marked "unadjusted", or will have no markings at all about adjustments. Even "unadjusted" mechanical watches usually have a regulator that can allow you to speed up or slow down the watch, but have no special means of adjusting any other aspect of the watch function.

Watches with better calibre movements will have been adjusted at the factory for a number of positions. The usual array of positions include a subset of the following positions:
1) Dial up
2) Dial down
3) Bow up
4) Bow down
5) Bow left
6) Bow right

These positional adjustments are intended to insure that the watch is just as realiable and accurate regardless of the position in which it is stored or used.

In addition to positional adjustments, the watch may also be adjusted for Temperature. Temperature affects different elements in different ways. Heat will cause some metals to expand faster than others, and cold may cause some metals to contract more than others. A watch that is adjusted to temperatures will usually include some combination of metals that allow the watch to maintain its proper functionality within a larger range of temperatures than one that is not adjusted for temperature.

Another type of adjustment is Isochronism. As a typical watch spring unwinds the pressure it exerts on the wheels of the movement reduces. This has the potential to create a difference in the operating speed of a fully wound watch versus the same watch in an nearly fully unwound state. Adjustments for isochronism attempt to compensate for this potential by maintaining the same pressure from the spring throughout most of the operating range of the watch. This sort of adjustment was generally seen only on the finest railroad grade watches of the 20th century.

The general rule of thumb with adjustments is that more is better. However, for average every day use, a typical unadjusted watch was perfectly adequate.

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Tuesday, December 16, 2008

King of the Sea



Who is King of the Sea? The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean which is preferred by Mr Bond or the Rolex Sea-Dweller which is part of the standard diving equipment of the famous Comex divers? John Holbrook wrote a comparative review on his website. Two professional divers, one with decades of experience and the other one by a brand with decades of waterresistant watches which resulted in the new Seamaster (Planet Ocean).

Personally, I think it is nice to see how they hold up to each other, but most readers are biased before they even start to read and the out come probably does not affect their original point of view. Anyway, this review is well written and contains great pictures of both giants. So, who is King of the Sea? Click this link to find out.


Saturday, December 13, 2008

What does it mean if I was told that you can't get parts from my watch?

Unlike being told you over wound your watch, being told that "you can't get parts for your watch anymore" may be the truth. However, if your watch is of good quality, made within the last 150 years and reasonably common, parts are usually still around if you look hard enough for them. Most of the time, when a watchmaker says "you can't get parts", they really mean "I'm either not interested in working on your watch,or I don't know how to work on your watch."

Even if parts can't be found, a good watchmaker can often make those parts. If the part is simple to make, say, a winding stem, or if another part can be easily modified, this may not be too expensive and most watchmakers should be able to fix the watch. Difficult parts such as a new escape wheel, can still be made by expert watchmakers, but this can be very expensive.

Don't accept the first claim that "you can't get parts", go find a better watchmaker.

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Friday, December 12, 2008

Can I repair my own watch?

Of course you can learn to repair your own watch. You can also learn to fly your own plane and overhaul your own car engine. It will take a certain level of mechanical skill, the right education, a lot of practice, and a bunch of money for the right tools.

It is tempting to think that all a watch needs is a little oil, but most of the time, the real problem is the dirt. You can oil many watches with a single drop of oil, and if you use too much oil, the watch won't work. Oiling a watch without cleaning it just doesn't work. To remove the dirt, you must disassemble and clean the watch.

Once a watch has been taken apart the parts are easily broken (even a bend of 1/100 of an inch can sometimes be irreparable). You won't be able to moved the parts without breaking or losing things. So, never take apart a watch unless you are certain you can put it back together. Taking a watch apart without breaking anything isn't too hard, although there are many small parts that are easily lost and springs that can literally jump out of the watch and disappear. Getting the watch cleaned and put back together without breaking things, however, is much harder. Just checking to see if the watch is working correctly once it is back together requires either a lot of time (days) or expensive equipment. If the watch isn't running well, and it likely won't be, diagnosing problems and repairing a watch can be very frustrating and requires a great deal of skill and knowledge.

Unless you have a dozen watches per year to fix and don't count your time as money, it is very unlikely that you will save money over having a watchmaker fix your watch. If you enjoy working on tiny machines and consider watch repair to be an extension of watch collecting, you might consider taking it up as a hobby.

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Thursday, December 11, 2008

How to Repair Silver Jewelry

When buying a piece of sterling silver jewelry, it is so beautiful and shines. In time, that necklace loses its luster, and eventually tarnishes and becomes black. You can however clean it and restore its luster.

Steps
1. Polish sterling silver by rubbing or buffing it regularly with a soft cotton cloth.
2. Consider using a chemically treated cloth that you can buy anyplace that Sterling silver jewelry is sold as it makes the job easier.
3. Understand that while sterling silver dips are fast and easy, many dips will remove the color from many gemstones that adorn the article. Also, if you leave the piece in too long, or fail to rinse it well, residues will remain when it dries. If you do use a dip, dip it in and out very fast and rinse it immediately in clean water followed by an immediate buffing to bring out the shine.
4. Repair a broken clasp by purchasing a replacement clasp. Clasps can be bought online or at a local craft supply store. Make sure you buy the same style and color as the broken one. If you have never been happy with that particular clasp, then buy an upgraded clasp that you would find easier to use
5. Check the chain to notice how the links were put together. You will need to know this, so that you can assemble the chain after you repair it.
6. Place the chain on a ceramic soldering board and use tweezers to put the two ends back together and squeeze the links until they are closed. Using your tweezers fit the two ends of the chain back together. Then squeeze the links closed.

Tips
· Put on any hair spray or perfume prior to putting on any jewelery.
· If the clasp is soldered on, you might need to bring it to the jewelers to repair.
1. when closing an open link or opening a closed link use two pairs of pliers and a twisting action

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Wednesday, December 10, 2008

The TAG Heuer Calibre 360

While getting caught up on email this weekend, I came across a note from TAG Heuer about the Calibre 360 concept watch that was introduced at Basel this year. First, TAG Heuer introduced the Microtimer, the first wristwatch accurate to 1/1000th of a second. Now they are making watch history again by introducing the first mechanical wristwatch capable of measuring and displaying 1/100th of a second. It doesn't look half bad, either, in my opinion. From TAG's Basel 2005 news page:
TAG Heuer ... is presenting at Baselworld 2005 the most accurate mechanical timepiece ever crafted, the “Calibre 360” Concept Chronograph. The “Calibre 360” Concept Chronograph is the first mechanical wrist chronograph to measure and display time to 1/100th of a second, thanks to the exceptionally high frequency of its balance wheel, which oscillates at 360,000 beats per hour, 10 times faster than any other chronograph—a rate that until now was considered impossible.
In the slide show accompanying the article, I believe I spied a sapphire caseback, too. It's a silly thing, but for some reason, I'm a sucker for those exhibition backs. Well done, TAG.
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Tuesday, December 9, 2008

TAG Heuer Introduces the Microtimer: The First Watch Precise to 1/1000th of a Second

In 1966, Heuer (before it was TAG Heuer) patented the first miniaturized electronic timekeeping instrument accurate to 1/1000th of a second. Now, 38 years later, TAG Heuer releases the first wristwatch capable of the same level of precision: the Microtimer.
Features of the Microtimer
F1 racing timer. Measurements precise to 1/1000th of a second.
Time each lap individually, and quickly recover the fastest lap in Best Lap mode. (Maximum lap time of 59 minutes, 59 seconds, and 999 thousandths of a second.)
Lap indicator. While in F1 racing mode, the watch displays the number of the current lap. (Maximum of 80 laps.)
Total race time. In addition to the time of the current lap, watch the total time of the race.
Alarm (sounds for 60 seconds).
Chronograph (stopwatch) with split times. (Measures to 1/1000th of a second, maximum time of 99 hours, 59 minutes, 59 seconds, and 999 thousandths of a second.)
Date.
Dual time zone display.
Quartz movement.
Water-resistant to 100 meters (10 ATM, 10 BAR, or 330 feet).
Scratch-proof, anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
Water-resistant, vulcanized, anti-UV treated rubber strap.
Backlight (illuminates for six seconds).
Low battery indicator (battery life between 2 and 3 years, depending on use).
"Screen saver." Turns the watch display off when not in use.

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